Jcb 3c mk3

[Mark.Rive]

Dieseljimmer my project has been overtaken by other things, I'm trying to finish my bathroom dont do diy very well! and I've been striping the donor 3D when I get time. I have managed to cut the cab off the restoration machine it was beyond repair. So I need to keep an eye out for one of those. No, Im not in plant, just trying to save a machine that i had a lot of fun in as a kid! When I get some decent progress I'll take some pictures and upload them.

With regard to your wiring in my manual on page 7-14. item 7 description is "thermostart" I've looked at other models and they list it the same. No glow plugs, I'm thinking "no start" if too hot I think Martyn might be able to help, he operated one, i only ever sat in them Once again thanks for your great posts. Mark

[Martyn Henley]

You know i have only operated two MK3's in my time and that was during the summer on both occasions and i cant remember the thermo start on the dash, i know in the mk2's there was a little pump thing on the left hand side of the dash board, attached to a little bowl.. and to be honest i never ever used it, 9 times out of 10 the thing was broken and i used the little button on the side of the injector pump to start the machines up on cold mornings .. so sorry i cannot help out there lads.

Martyn

[essexpete]

Yes some of the Leyland engines were set up with a heat element in the intake manifold linked to the fuel system. It would be a good idea to replace the unit if it is still there linked to the fuel system as they can leak. The thermostat aid seemed to be used with the CAV rotary pump.
An older engine that we had in a 3C11 had an inline pump with a cold start excess fuel button. A replacement 4.98 we fitted in our last powertrain had the heater and an inline pump with excessfuel. It hardly ever needed these aids.

Good work, it is looking very smart.

[Mark.Rive]

Of course, heat element in the manifold, what was I thinking "no start if too hot" must stop drinking red wine! Mark

[Dieseljimmer]

Hi Mark, Essexpete, Martyn,

Thanks for the feedback, it’s jogged the thought cells ! I've not investigated fully yet but I can see where I’m headed now, thanks
Just had a quick look, it looks like the wire in question is the live feed to the cold start arrangement. When the machine was purchased the cold start was long redundant and as mention was probably never used. I certainly didn’t need it to start it after what must have been an age lying idle and at the time the weather was cold, it started no problem So, the cold start apparatus was removed, all that’s left is the inlet manifold heater. I think it’s a heater, there is no electrical connection to it though! Is it a bit like the old Perkins heater arrangement, hold it over until you heard the mini explosion in the induction manifold then crank the engine? That had an electrical connection and a diesel fed. From memory, when I ditched the cold start, it consisted of a pump and something that looked like a lighter fuel connection, all located on the dash.
The long and short of it is I can disconnect it, it appears to be fed from the starter motor connections, as with most of the wiring, the colours on the wires are starting to fade along with a good dose of yellow paint from previous spray jobs!

Not long now Need to run the engine now to warm everything through. If the oil filler gauze is anything to go by the rocker cover will need removing and cleaning , can do the valve clearance’s then

Update to follow!

[essexpete]

James if you do disconnect the heat starting aid then it might be a good idea to make a mod and remove the fuel system from it. The reason I suggest this because they can leak fuel into the manifold when the engine is running. This can go unnoticed and make the engine knock under certain conditions and also cause diesel to dilute oil. I have had this happen of times over the years. Personally I would get the system to work as it can help to start more quickly on a very cold morning.

[ian white]

your doing a great job on 3c111,i have a soft spot for that machine, one of the first i drove, i take my hat off to people like you, i tend to live in the past, when the game was a better place

[Dieseljimmer]

Hi Ian,
Thanks for the compliment , it can be a bit of a thankless task at times but it is coming along nicely now!

James if you do disconnect the heat starting aid then it might be a good idea to make a mod and remove the fuel system from it. The reason I suggest this because they can leak fuel into the manifold when the engine is running. This can go unnoticed and make the engine knock under certain conditions and also cause diesel to dilute oil. I have had this happen of times over the years. Personally I would get the system to work as it can help to start more quickly on a very cold morning.

Thanks for the points guys . I think I’ve sussed it with the live cable. It must have been a feed for the cold start system? Essexpete, it would have been nice to get the cold start system running but unfortunately there wasn’t much left of it . The pump was badly corroded and seized and the lighter fuel assembly was half of what it should have been so it all got removed and is lying about the workshop somewhere!

Resent jobs have included an oil flush and replenished with nice fresh oil. The first oil drain the oil came out brown, almost mud coloured and stank along with some emulsified oil ! The oil filter housing needed some TLC. The filter housing looked like it had never been off in years, the steel and aluminium had all but corroded together, what a mess! I’ll leave you to ponder the oil filter picture.

Catch you soon

[MrF]

That looks like my diesel filter innards!, although I was most pleased to find a actual element inside the engine oil filter casing when I changed it recently.
I have the cold start (start pilote?) system where you put fluid in a resivoir on the left of the dash, then pumped it into the intake manifold with the plunger system, which predictably is completely broken on mine with the threaded section being snapped off and the tube between the pump and inlet manifold mia. I also have the cold start knob at the top of the dash and I was wondering how that fitted into the picture too although mine appears to operate a bowden cable not a electrical switch? I cant see anywhere on the pump that it would connect though.

Good progress, I want to take my dash off now to fix electrical stuff and the steering wheel has already resisted two good pullers and appears to have no father. Did your's just pop off with a bit of assistance from a extractor?

[Dieseljimmer]

Hi Mr P. Yes, sounds much the same as the setup that I had. The manifold nozzle is still in place but fortunately the plastic pipe connection has suffered damage and is effecting a good seal into the manifold so I think that bit is best left alone!

I also have the cold start knob at the top of the dash and I was wondering how that fitted into the picture too although mine appears to operate a bowden cable not a electrical switch? I cant see anywhere on the pump that it would connect though.

I too had a cold start cable in the cab, “cold start” and “stop” cable both together on a bracket on the right hand side. The cables both ended up at the pump but not connected, the same as you, I could not find where it was supposed to terminate on the pump!

Good progress, I want to take my dash off now to fix electrical stuff and the steering wheel has already resisted two good pullers and appears to have no father. Did your's just pop off with a bit of assistance from a extractor?

My steering wheel came off easily enough, thankfully! Tappers are a bit of a sod though ! I did use a pullers and if I remember rightly I had the nut on protecting the threads and with the puller done up as firmly as it would go I knocked the centre shaft of the puller and that broke the tapper and the wheel came off!

One problem that I do need to sort since oiling up the hydraulic system is the steering ram, its leaking quiet badly and I can’t find any information in the JCB Down loaded Manual about it. Can anyone out there help? There appears to be some sort of “C” clip locking the nut in position. The other thing is, is a service kit available for it? Thanks All!