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Wet liner / sleeve puller

Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 10:38 am
by NickH
Hi all,

I'm trying to remove my wet liners from a 3 cylinder BMC engine and wondered if anyone had a puller they could lend or rent to me. Happy to pay carriage both ways etc.

Alternatively, if you can direct me to someone who does, that would be good too.

Cheers

Nick :thumbup:

Re: Wet liner / sleeve puller

Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 12:30 pm
by jcb4cx
when i pulled the ones on my D4 ,i made it up from threaded bar and some good chunks of iron ,old JD drawbar i think it was

Re: Wet liner / sleeve puller

Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 12:47 pm
by NickH
Thanks. Sadly have no workshop at the mo' so struggling with that kind of thing. Are they difficult to pull?

Re: Wet liner / sleeve puller

Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 1:36 pm
by martyn williams
Some times you may be able to knock them out with a bit of hard wood. Get some plate or square and cut it to the same diameter as the outside of the liner, cut/ drill a hole in the middle and get hold of some threaded bar to make up a puller, a couple of hours spent on that is worth it. A bit of plate and theaded bar is the best way and pull them.
Wet liners usually are easier to remove though. Be carefull not to damage the block though. A fabrication shop, may help if you have one in the area, or even a plant hire firm. Some fitters hang onto pullers that they have made up.
Martyn

Re: Wet liner / sleeve puller

Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 1:39 pm
by martyn williams
[video]http://youtu.be/wAghF-sUtVI[/video]

Re: Wet liner / sleeve puller

Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 2:53 pm
by TrevorJ
Following on from Martyn ... You may not necessarily need a riggy dige looking puller. I've known a fella to fashion a puller from solid hardwood ... apart from the threaded bar, nuts and washers. Just an angle grinder, drill (and bits,) patience and a bit of time. The bottom of it was two piece, one piece being lathed (well spun up on a drill against the grinder) so it could fit inside the liner and catch the liner with the second beneath it (same diameter) was slid in afterwards to give the strength - it couldn't be one piece as there wasn't room to get it around the crankshaft. It was assembled in situ ... the top wood beam was supported on a couple of blocks on either side of the cylinder.

It was clunky but worked well.