Liner Roughrider, gearbox problem

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Julian
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Re: Liner Roughrider, gearbox problem

Post #41 by Julian » Mon Mar 07, 2011 10:12 pm

rob scotland wrote:the diff has the name leys in the casting


That look very similar to mine. It's certainly off a small commercial like a Tranny, far too solid for it to be a car one I would say.

To oldbikeles: I'm not sure that I'd be too bothered about that plate. As I see it it's only to put a bit of pre-load on the gear lever and doesn't participate (as such) in gear selection.

Julian.


essexpete
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Re: Liner Roughrider, gearbox problem

Post #42 by essexpete » Wed Mar 09, 2011 12:50 am

I would have thought an ep90 would have been speced. Perhaps today if being used all year an 80w-90 gear oil.

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rob scotland
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Re: Liner Roughrider, gearbox problem

Post #43 by rob scotland » Mon Apr 18, 2011 10:02 pm

nearly finished the rebuild, starting first time without priming, completely rebuilt the laddle at the front just got to finish the corners, neighbours currently borrowing both the digger and the dumper to do his patio. makes up for some of the banging from my garage while it was being repaired.
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its never as simple as it first seemed

Smalley mini digger 430 lister lpws3
Liner rough rider lr2 diesel


cobbadog
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Re: Liner Roughrider, gearbox problem

Post #44 by cobbadog » Sat Jun 02, 2018 5:40 am

Nice work Rob, they are looking beautiful.
Our Humpty Dumpy, a Liner - Roughrider 1250 (I think) appears to have been painted White at some stage. Would this have been an original colour for it?
On the subject of the rectangular plate It looks a sit is a part of the selection process having the ends slightly kicked up at the ends and would fit into the slots of the selectors. Am I thinking right or not? Also is there pin to keep it in place or just a taper fit?

Providing Humpty is a Roughrider 1250, does anyone have a picture of the hand brake set up? At the moment I have a hand brake lever attached to the RHS of the steering column but nothing else. I noticed the triangular shaped linkage joiner in front of the pedals on the chassis with the foot brake linkages attached and I guess the hand brake attaches to that somehow. Any help much appreciated.
Cheers Cobba


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oldbikeles
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Re: Liner Roughrider, gearbox problem

Post #45 by oldbikeles » Sat Jun 02, 2018 10:23 am

This is initially for Cobbadog who has asked about my handbrake arrangements. About 2 years ago, I decided I must do something about the brake(s). The foot brake was non-existent, and the handbrake about the same. I obtained a set of brake linings, intended for a Hillman Hunter, Sceptre or Sunbeam something or other. (UK made "Rootes Group as it was stuff) I will try to find the details later. One or more of the shoe return springs was rusted away, so I did an Ebay search. I think the first lot were wrong, but I did get a set eventually.
Next was simple routine stuff, I slacked off all adjusters before fitting new shoes, then one wheel at a time I adjusted the taper mushrooms to just take up slack then backed off a little. (I seem to recall one was badly seized, but I got it working eventually).
Next, all linkages, pivots etc were freed off and greased, and then the foot brake adjusted to feel just right. Finally I adjusted the handbrake, which I recall is just a length of Bowden cable inner. Both brakes I seem to recall were adequate at that stage. However, having stood again outside over winter, they are quite poor again. To stop on a slope, I need to press on the pedal (bulging eyes stuff) AND operate the handbrake to over-centre.
Now if the last two paragraphs seem vague, it is because I forget the exact detail, but it really was all common sense "mechanicalling". I will try to take a photo later, it is sitting there right now with a ladle full of clay.
But that was just one job. I took the dumper up the lane to collect logs, very stony and uneven, and very little grip. I eventually manage in reverse with neighbour in bucket to try to ballast the wheels. When I came to return, I lost drive. The prop shaft, all 2" of it, had sheared off. I suppose that you can't expect much from a layer of yellow paint on to a layer of rust! A pal who repairs old cars had a prop shaft (off a land rover I think), and a short length was cut off. Cleaned up on the lathe, at exactly 2" long, and the two ends were mounted (4-jaw chuck I think) and were cleaned up. The whole was re-assembled, then carefully welded up using my new inverter welder. I gave my old oil cooled Citringham welder to my pal who provided the prop-shaft, rather than just scrapping it after 50+ years.
Of course more disaster was to follow; I left the dumper ticking over whilst emptying the ladle (hand spade as usual) when I realised it was labouring and slowing down. Before I got to investigate, it stopped. Like a total idiot, I had allowed the oil to fall too low! It was very difficult to start, not at all in cold weather, then only using a quick start spray, with all the risks of handle kick back. Now the weather is warm, it does start OK, but it is dripping oil so quickly that it needs regular top-up. Once this back filling is done, I will get my pal to take it away and investigate. He has stripped a few Lister and Petters engines before, so I should get it back as a "gud-un" once more.
Since I last visited, I have moved maybe 25tons of stones (The PO left behind a big pile of Manx building stone, i.e., big lumps of Manx slate and large rounded sea-stones). I have created a 45 degree slope up to a newly laid lawn, and in the far corner of the garden, where water runs off the hillside, carrying the soft silt with it, my cottage's PO had put up retaining barricades to stop the hillside "falling down" onto the garden. I took a risk, removed it all, dug deep with the little JCB, then handballed about 10 tons of the stones again to a 45 degree slope, over filled it with sand and soil, and now it is covered with fresh foxglove growth! The first job entailed digging 3 feet down, adding drainage, then taking the slope up to just over 4 feet with a small decorative wall in front. The "hillside retention" job was again about 3 feet down, drainage channel and then pile the stones to about 7 feet. Needless to say, the little Roughrider had the task of carrying all the stones from the big pile to each destination. I still have about 20 tons of stone left, so a wall alongside the lane will finish the pile off if I can judge it correctly.
Next I am planning a conservatory at the back of the cottage, and said I would prepare the footings for builders. Of course I "found" the land drain I installed about 8 years ago, so had to dig a new trench further out. Why did that drain have to be EXACTLY where I had planned the footings? ALL CLAY, real good blue stuff. With more water running down in part of the slope, it was almost impossible to work there. Elsewhere, the clay is mostly dry and hard, and the JCB's narrow bucket will make two deep tooth marks, but NOT dig a layer of the clay. It is so hard and strong that the bucket has to be crowded in order to lift a small layer, and even that takes about three goes to get a small bucket full out. With luck, today I will join up the plastic land drain in the new trench, then the easy bit, back fill it. I should get out there this morning to make the final connection, but the first race (this year's TT racing ) starts in two hours, so I may give it a miss.
I will try to get the photos later, and the details of the brake shoes.
Les.


cobbadog
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Re: Liner Roughrider, gearbox problem

Post #46 by cobbadog » Sun Jun 03, 2018 5:41 am

Hi Les,
Thank you so much for the information on the brakes. I have no issues with the operation of the foot brake just the hand brake. I have a over centre operational handle but nothing else and I am not sure how and where to run it correctly so when you get the chance that will help me immensely. The drum brakes as you suggest look to be a rather standard Girling/Girlock system found out here on Mini and other UK made jalopies and are simple to repair and when or if I need new linings I can buy new linings easily or send them off to have new linings bonded on.
So when you can could you please send some pics of the cable system you have and where it clearly runs. On 2 YouTube videos it looks like they were running a bent flat bar iron linkage forward towards the triangular piece that the round brake rods connect to.
I operated earth moving equipment for too many years a long time back and when I had something a bit tough to dig I would do what you already suggested and that was to take it out in layers. I would 'crowd' the bucket so that the teeth were facing the machine and keeping your teeth level pull the bucket towards you and at the same time pull the dipper arm inwards and the main boom upwards so that the teeth of the bucket cut a level layer of earth. All your trenching and backfilling with blue gravel makes me smile as I have done plenty of that for work and for around our block of ground. we get a lot of run off from the rain so a drain was definitely needed but no machinery could fit between the garage and fence so it was 3 foot down and all by hand. This was done 2 months after a shoulder reconstruction, a little bit at a time.
WOW the TT what a fantastic race that is. Does joey Dunlop or his son still race in that? It is a great race to watch.
Cheers Cobba


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