B100 engine removal

[sphill]

Hi
Have recently acquired an IH B100 Drott Serial No. 603. The engine is seized due to rain water in the cylinders hence the need to remove the engine. We have come across a snag in that two of the bell housing bolts, one each side, are obscured by the rigid crossbar which is virtually touching the bolt heads, see attached picture. My question is, does the crossbar have to be removed, a big job as the bolts are large and a bit rusty also the loader frame seems to be attached to it and the track frames. The crossbar seems too close to the engine back plate ( bell housing) to allow the engine to move forward enough to get the flywheel and clutch out on the engine. What stops the tractor falling apart if this bar is removed?

Any advise will be appreciated.

Thanks Simon.

[Jeremy Rowland]

Hi Simon and welcome to the site I am sure that Martyn 'B100 Loader' Williams should be able to offer you some good advice here (among many other experienced members that we have on here)

Jeremy

[romneyman]

Hi Simon, remove the six bolts that hold the saddle to the main frame (beneath the clutch housing) then jack up the front of the machine until there is enough clearance to remove the bolts.
Peter

[sphill]

Hi Peter
Thanks for that info. I guess when you jack the front of the tractor it pivots about the rear axle. We'll give it a go after Christmas and let you know how we get on.

Cheers Simon.

[romneyman]

Hi Simon,
Last nights post was done in a bit of a rush and I should have said that you will need to remove the four bolts either side that hold the loader frame to the rigid beam. These are usually well rusted in place and we used to burn the heads off and knock them down through the beam.
It is also best to remove the clutch crosshaft before jacking up the front of the machine, the shaft comes out through holes in the loader frame and they might not line up with the shaft once you start jacking. Hope this helps and let us know how you get on with the job.
Happy Christmas
Peter

[tctractors]

Or you can strip out the clutch, then unbolt the flywheel to undo the bolts behind it and leave the back plate in place, its sometimes easier this way have a look at the bolts in the frame and think about it some?
tctractors

[sphill]

Hi Peter

Thanks for the additional info. I had wondered after your first reply what to do about the loader frame bolts and I was going to remove the clutch release shaft anyway.

Thanks tctractors for your suggestion although I had thought of that but because the engine is seized I can't rotate the flywheel to access the all of the bolts securing the clutch etc.

Thanks Happy Christmas
Simon

[sphill]

Hi
We have now removed the engine from the tractor after a bit of hassle releasing the loader frame from the cross bar. As well as the four 3/4" bolts each side there were also the two 1" bolts each side that secure the crossbar to the track frame. We cut the heads off the 3/4" bolts but decided that it would be better to cut the loader frame bracket rather than disturb the track frame bolts. We also removed the loader boom because although the rams were securely chocked with angle each side it seemed safer to remove the boom. We will also remove the loader frame from the tractor as we have discovered several cracks in the frame which will be easier to repair with the frame removed.
We have dismantled the engine and found it to be in relatively good condition. The crank was removed allowing the pistons to be knocked out with a block of wood and a large hammer. The rust in the bores seems fairly minor but a good clean and hone will show the true picture. The pistons look fairly good and most of the rings are free. The crank bearings are all standard, the journals are all good with a couple mains showing a bit of water staining but there is no scoring or pitting so it looks like the engine will live again!
Next job before we commit to restoring the tractor is to check out the steering clutches as they seem to be stuck at the moment but looking at them they don't look to bad i.e not all rusty or not submerged in water. I've seen a few pictures on the internet of other peoples clutches that they have repaired/restored and they looked far worse than ours. Still get them out and dismantled and then we'll know what we're dealing with and whether a restoration is feasible.

Regards Simon.

[martyn williams]

Been very busy so just saw this thread.Those frame bolts are very tight, and usually corroded solid. A multiplier can be used to remove bolts as they are torqued to around 900 ft lb. Steering clutches can be a right pig.Its common for them to stick due to in activity and water in the housings. I have a TD6 pair to do soon. The plates stick together, the metal ones corrode and stick to the fibre ones. You would not think they would do that .but the corroded metal has to be ground or chiseled off the fibre disks. Good luck
Martyn