Definitive 3CX King Pin repair guide

[vino]

Hi,seamus do you have a manual for a 3cx?I have a white cab model 1982,2wheel drive with a lot of kingpost play.Looking for a handbook or workshop manual,from Ireland as well.
regards vino

[steifanc]

has any one got the master spline repaired ? mine has just bust and is spinning atount in the housing

[Mark.Rive]

Hi,seamus do you have a manual for a 3cx?I have a white cab model 1982,2wheel drive with a lot of kingpost play.Looking for a handbook or workshop manual,from Ireland as well.
regards vino

Hi Vino, you can download your manual here JCB 214 3CX 1400B workshop manual

If its not the correct one for your machine check the other jcb downloads Cheers Mark

[steve b]

I have a 1989 3cx which stripped the splines off the king post carrier
I read this thread hoping that It would give me a walk through on how to repair the problem.
It does not quite give a walk through but it does have some useful tips.

Anyway today I bit the bullet and went for it.

To be honest I was'nt as bad as I was expecting. Most of it was common sense.

[tctractors]

McSpud, to swap out the Knackered bits on an older style 3CX is very simple, as already said if you have a ditching bucket handy its even easier, so lets pretend? its (3CX) fitted with the ditching bucket, the bucket can be in the fully crowded or opend up but touching the floor position, the arm is to be stretched fully out and resting on the floor, block up under the boom base pin with timber (Baulks) the jack legs can be fired down to give you an inch or so movement without robbing you of drive, poke a lump of timber under the hoist cylinder and lash it with something to the cylinder, strip off the pipe work blanking the excavator (Live) ends with steel caps and remove the 2 pins holding things together, drive the excavator forward about 5ft, then drain down the bottom of the kingpost of oil, then undo the bolts on the base cap leaving 2 loose in position to stop the main shaft dropping, put a trolly jack under the cap and remove the last 2 bolts, then lower the jack down slow about 4 to 6 " the shaft sould come down with the base plate, the plastic cap on the top will pop free (unless its bolted?) if the shaft does not drop give the kingpost a shake, then lower the trolly jack a good bit more so the shaft is still holding the kingpost to the back plate , drop something down the top hole so it (kingpost) cannot fall to bits on you, then lower the jack to the floor and lift clear of the shaft using the jack legs, move the shaft clear of things, then stack a few pallets under the kingpost so you can lower things down and drop the kingpost on to them and drive forward (unless you have other lifting equipment) then you come to the Tomb Stone plate, this is set with splines and a bush, the splines are nearly always worn out and the bush is always worn out, the main shaft is exchangable and the back plate is also, the kingpost and base plate has a bush or 2 in to swap out after the steam cleaning thing is done, if you have done this task before it will take about 1 day to do it, if its your first attempt at it allow 2 days, the hose route around the kingpost is a usual mistake so take a few snaps before you get mind games set in, the king post shiming is simple your parts man will tell you the tricks. best of luck tctractors

p.s. dont forget to top up the Kingpost after, also make sure the breather is good.

[fingers]

Hi all

I dropped the back actor off my 1984 C3X site master today as it has stopped slewing either way. A massive thanks to this thread and tctractors for the information and confidence to tackle such a job.

The one thing i did differently as I didn't have any blanking plates for the live pipes was to connect them to any open ended thread creating a loop, worked a treat.

When I removed the shaft from the kingpost i didn't know what to expect so I attach some photos of my findings.
I presume the centre splines on the shaft are meant to marry up with some splines in the carriage which will stop the shaft moving.
I haven't taken the king post off the carriage yet but sticking my hand up from the bottom it is a smooth as a baby's bottom.
This must have been like this for years looking at the build up of crap in what's left of the splines on the shaft, not sure how it could have kept working all this time.

I guess I need a new shaft, bush / seal repair kit as a minimum, do i need to get a complete carriage or are the splines replaceable ? also would I need a king post as well ?

Lastly why do I need to line everything up with the roll pins and master splines ? not sure what they do, as like the splines they are long gone !

Appreciate any help before i invest my hard earned cash. Machine will only be used for light work so would consider some short cuts if there are any.

thanks

Graham

[tctractors]

Wow, it looks like you have the old 2 piece shaft, this was changed under a JCB defect design program in the mid 80's to the single syle shaft, the upgrade kit was a fair bit of parts I must have changed about a dozen of them in the 80's? you might need to do a bit of homework on this,
tctractors

[fingers]

I suppose the scheme has run out then !

so options avaliable
1) change complete king post & carriage, (expensive, will the back actor pins fit new model king post & carriage)
2) Find new carriage and shaft to fit existing king post (hen teeth spring to mind)
3) Find a way to fix exisiting shaft to carriage ? ( is it possible to drill and bolt / superglue etc?
4) I have a 1978 3c 111 in the field, will the carriage fit a 3cX ?

any sensible suggestion welcome !

[tctractors]

Dont panic its only a single shaft that is that knackered it now 2 sections, the original 2 piece kingposts all failed years ago, the bushings in the kingpost need beating out and replacing, then you need a new /rebuilt pin and an exchange back plate ( re-splined) on the use of the Mk 111 king post you would be making a stronger bit of kit, as they lasted very well as the build quality was very good in those heady days.

tctractors

[donallen]

hi guys dont know if this still live , i ve dropped the kingpin assembly outta my old 3cii and am wondering out to proceed to remove actual pin . as suggested on this thread its the female spline in the cast that has worn so in order to weld up new teeth it would be handy to offer up the pin spline side to check fit, hope this makes sense