JCB 3CIII

[essexpete]

I always found our old Mk 111 build 5 with extending dipper very heavy on the rear end. we used to swap the bucket for a flat 8 bale grab and it was light on the front then, especially considering our's was the long loader arms. We used to shift the post to one side , drop off the rear bucket and tuck the boom right in tight behind the machine for loading only.

[CFD]

Found the number: SK1 003977.

[MrF]

Some pics of the fork attachment arrangement on the bucket. They are later forks, so fold up neater and I made up the plates to attach them to the bucket...let me know if you want any other pics....can pop over to the shed and take a few more....the advantages (or disadvantages?) of running a business from home....!

Thats fine, I need to make the section that fits between the forks and the eyes for mine, Ive seen a few 3cx where the bucket side of the eyes are on the top of the bucket like mine but the link brackets are shaped to fit around and into the top edge of the bucket but push the pivot that the forks themselves pivot on lower still, so the top/front face of the bucket takes the strain of the link brackets rather than the top pin bushes if you understand what I mean, and I wondered if yours was set up like this.
Ive got to make up the bucket eyes also, but I have the front loader mounts cut from a wrecked mk2 to use for these.

[CFD]

Anyone know where I might source the correct temp and pressure gauges for the torque converter that are on the left side of the dash - shown in the pic below? Mine were conveniently smashed at some stage in its earlier life....
Thanks.

[MrF]

You can buy black faced black or chrome rim gauges of the same diameter/style and range on ebay if you just want to tidy up rather than maintain 100% originality, I have replaced both of these because mine were missing needles and mashed up bad. The pressure gauge is mechanical with just a sensor tube connection, but the temp gauge is electrical of course, and currently none of my dash electrics are hooked up because of other issues so I can't say if its reading ok, if not the sensor itself on the transmission oil cooler is easy to change for one compatible with the meter you get.
Also a option as they still have needles, if they work mechanically, gauge glass and a replacement trim ring+seal, there are parts for 52mm gauges on ebay (2" going from memory, check first). Ive done a few more awkward landrover & motorcycle clocks like this. You put the new rim clip on and bend over some tabs to secure the rim against the foam. I've resprayed gauge faces and re-lettered them in particular cases when the parts have warranted the effort.
some parts on ebay :-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203247182097

[MrF]

Also its a bit of a faff getting behind that to get the gauges out (to get the dash off, I have found for me the easiest way was to take the wheel off with a puller, then remove the transmission shuttle lever and lift it off whole), so I'd look at how brittle the nylon lines are to the other gauges in the cluster and consider if its time to replace them also.

[CFD]

Ive done a few more awkward landrover & motorcycle clocks like this. You put the new rim clip on and bend over some tabs to secure the rim against the foam. I've resprayed gauge faces and re-lettered them in particular cases when the parts have warranted the effort.
some parts on ebay :-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203247182097

Many thanks MrF....yes, I had to rebuild a 52mm petrol guage for the 80" Land Rover I did....and it was exactly as you describe....getting a good face, putting it into a working guage and getting the bezel and glass.

My dash sounds like its like yours...or worse, as I have most of the switches and guages / lights to still get working.....and the wiring loom is also a mess, so that's a project first in itself.

I will keep an eye on eBay for guages. My preference is to get original guages as I am hoping to bring it back to as it left the factory.

[CFD]

Also its a bit of a faff getting behind that to get the gauges out (to get the dash off, I have found for me the easiest way was to take the wheel off with a puller, then remove the transmission shuttle lever and lift it off whole), so I'd look at how brittle the nylon lines are to the other gauges in the cluster and consider if its time to replace them also.

Yes, thats what I did when I fitted a new dash to it some time ago. Makes the job alot easier alright. I will wait until I have all the parts needed assembled and then look at doing the job in one go......assuming it doesn't take me 4520 years to collect what I need... ..!!

[Tillywolves]

Ive got the rear extending dipper... oh yes, it makes the front very light. Easy to wheelie a 7 ton digger when its out a little bit...

[CFD]

Went shopping today...see how fitting these goes over the coming days...5 kits for some of the rams on boom/dipper, loader and one jack and one hydraclamp seal.