Reinstalling diesel injectors, Leyland 4/98NT

[CHRISEEBOY]

Cheers Jeremy, that confirms what I thought. The article I read that mentioned the bondloc also goes on to suggest using a "flat face mandrel" to drive the sleeve home and a socket on an extension bar to swell the end of the sleeve once its in place. This is of course in reference to the sleeves that dont require a special rolling tool. Is this a technique you would advocate?

[CHRISEEBOY]

End on picture of injector sleeve (and injector tip) as promised.

[Jeremy Rowland]

Chris yes the Bondloc or Loctite whichever you choose is an important factor to seal the sleeves.

Jeremy

[CHRISEEBOY]

*UPDATE*

I have finished work early today and wanted to get a head start on these injectors before the weekend. I have managed to get the first sleeve of with my dremmel and intend to repeat the process with the remaining three. There was a lot of muck between the sleeve and injector, probably the reason why it was so stuck.

Could someone please clarify if I will need to use a washer and/or O ring when I come to refit the injectors? Im going with the sleeves from Charnleys that dont need to be rolled in as I cant find the tools anywhere!

I have attached photos of the first injector after it was freed from its sleeve and after I cleaned it, also a photo of the hole.

I will take Jeremy's advice and smear some copper grease on the injector body before it goes back in.

[MrF]

I followed https://www.tractorspareparts.co.uk/ima ... ectors.pdf for my sleeve install (including loctite, and clean up of the hole with a dremel + soft wire brush). I left my sleeves in the freezer for a few hours before installing them to try and give it more chance of going fully home without scratching the outside of the sealing surface. They went fully home and the loctite has certainly taken, because I cant get them back out to inspect now.

In tractorspare's pdf it notes :-
"These tools are still available but very expensive; we at Tractor Spare Parts Ltd have redeveloped
37D2599 so it can be fitted without the over rolling tools. It’s worth noting these new sleeves can
also be used on the 4/98 and 6/98 series of engines. When used on these engines you do not have to
fit the loose injector washer 86K1099."

So the injector copper washer is no longer required as its formed into the sleeve itself on 37D2599 type. The o-ring depends on if you had one fitted when you removed the original sleeves as its only the later engines that had this (mine didnt).

[CHRISEEBOY]

Thanks MrF

Unfortunately Charnleys are out of stock of the toolless sleeves and tractorspares seem very expensive - £115 for 4 sleeves!

I get that those sleeves dont require the washer, but where is the washer? Is it still in the cylinder head bore or is it that copper at the end of the injector (see photo above)? If I go with the toolless sleeves will i have to remove the copper from the end of my injector is that an integral part of the injector its self?

As for the O ring, where exactly is that? How do I know if my engine was fitted with them? Is it attached to the sleeve (in which case I dont have them) or is it that black band just visible on the photo that sits just inside the cylinder head bore?

[MrF]

Its the copper at the end of the injector, sometimes they're well stuck on by heat/old age and take a bit of getting off but your supposed to renew or anneal them when you remove the injectors or otherwise the combustion gases can escape up the sides of the injectors filling the gap between them and the sleeves with black carbon over time. Or in our case with the tool-less sleeves with integral copper washer, just leave them off completely.

If you look at this photo of the bare injectors out of my 4/98, you can see that its not part of the injector proper as its been removed. Its just a sealing washer that goes on the end where it contacts the head casting, with the pintle's extending past it into the chamber. The copper you can see in this pic on the top half of the injector is to seal the injector body components together, and you should not disturb that at all (nor have need to if theyre ok), as you would need to set the injector pressures on a pop tester afterwards if you did.


The o-ring afaik is the black band just visible in your photo, I didn't have them on my motor just a void there so I didn't put any back in. Maybe I should have had, as with a lot of machines a lot of people have had their fingers in it over the years so they could have just been left out by a previous person. I would certainly fit new ones because it will help stop the leakage from the top of the sleeve, which I believe is why leyland introduced them as its not a unknown sight to see a 4/98 dribbling water from that area.

[CHRISEEBOY]

Thank you MrF, that's a huge help!

I think I've got all the information I need to tackle this job now, starting with removing the copper washers. Its funny that Leyland left a groove for an O ring but didn't actually fit them in the earlier engines. I'm going to use bondloc on the top and bottom just to be on the safe side

[CHRISEEBOY]

Its taken a while (other jobs to do and such) but the new injector sleeves are all rolled into place.

My only concern is that the new sleeves are around 2mm taller than the old sleeves. The old sleeves were the same style (they are a tube, without a built in washer). These new sleeves have been driven all the way home but now sit quite proud of the head, see photos. I am worried that this will mean the injector tips will not sit as far into the cylider as they need to.

Will this be ok or should I attempt to "mushroom" the tops of the sleeve in an effort to get them flush?

[CHRISEEBOY]

New sleeve and old sleeve side by side