How to remove stuck roll pin

[modelman093]

Quote " so worn that it has a step in it and essentially the ram has dropped and will be locking it in place. So no amount of heat or bashing on it is going to help. If everything is unloaded and the other end of the ram free, I wonder if it could be as simple as moving the ram on the pin and lining it up so the pin can be slid out? "

My thoughts as well . Perhaps get someone to giggle the boom a bit while hitting the pin in the hope of finding the "sweet spot" ?
Assuming that you can get at it , have you tried attacking it from the opposite end? A combination of that and rotating it may work.

[3crows]

To clarify, this is a 2"x 9" solid tool steel pivot pin and not a roll pin. I thought I'd seen it called either but they're different critters. My mistake. The area around the pin is 2" thick on either side of the cast iron/cast steel (?) box with the ram riding in between.

[Slooby]

So, have you had a chance to look at how the Ram is sitting on the pin you are trying to exract to gauge how much wear there is and work out if it is the worn pin locking it in place? If the ram can rotate easily on the pin then in theory the pin should be able to turn on its own.

If you don't have access to gas welding gear but do have a MIG or MMA (Arc/stick) Welder you could weld big nuts onto the exposed ends of the pin. In welding them in place to give you something to try turning the pin with you also get a reasonable amount of heat transferred to the pin itself and if you are lucky it might be enough to free things off. That method has worked for me in the past on car suspension bits, but of course we're talking M16 bolts at best there!

Another option could be to weld on a bolt so you have something you can get a nut onto to help turn the pin, and something to attach a slide hammer to.

Just one more thought, if there's a centre point divot in the middle of the exposed end on the pin and you have an SDS hammer drill you could always attach the breaker spike to the drill and line it up with that indent to give it a damn good rattle...

[3crows]

It's out! Here's what I did. I glued a length of 1/4" rubber tubing in a 'U' shape around the pin on one side with rubber cement leaving about 1/4" clearance around the pin. I took a piece of EPDM rubber and a piece of plywood and clamped it over the glued tubing to hold and seal it. Then I sprayed penetrating oil in at the top. Topped off the penetrating oil every day for 3 days and let it creep.Put a small can under neath to catch any penetrating oil that might leak. Not much did. I think the only leakage was from overflow. Anyway, it's out and on the ground. I ordered a gland wrench off Ebay tonight and need to find/order the seals. WOOP!!!

[Jeremy Rowland]

well done glad you got it sorted.

Jeremy

[Slooby]

[3crows]

[3crows]

Does anyone know the part # for this pin? Also need the part # for the seal kit for the ram.

[agrimax]

Pin part number is 811/80021.
Ram seal kit is 991/00131.
That's from JCB parts.com.

[dirtbill]

heat, patience and a large sledge hammer are the solution to that problem, the other thing to consider is this: that cylinder can be disassembled with the main cylinder housing still attached, all the wear parts remain on the ram which can then be taking to the hydraulic shop and replaced and carefully re-inserted. It doesn't solve the stuck pin but it can fix the ram.

I have done it with a stabilizer ram I could not get removed.