The Classic Machinery Network

Cheers - I'll give them a bell. Thank you!

Ended up managing to source a pump driveshaft locally fairly cheaply, however, for the life of me, I can't get the pump side of the driveshaft off of the pump. I've removed the small grub screw, I've soaked it in diesel for days, I've hit it, I've even had a ratchet strap on it to try and pull it off and it just won't budge! Any ideas?

If I can't remove it, I'm going to have to try and fit a UJ joint in situ (not going to be fun!). Does anyone have the size of UJ required? I know the width of the cup is 27mm, but I'm getting various overall lengths ranging from 78.5mm up to 81.5mm as I'm struggling to measure the one insitu.

Many Thanks!

Woody3 wrote:Ended up managing to source a pump driveshaft locally fairly cheaply, however, for the life of me, I can't get the pump side of the driveshaft off of the pump. I've removed the small grub screw, I've soaked it in diesel for days, I've hit it, I've even had a ratchet strap on it to try and pull it off and it just won't budge! Any ideas?

If I can't remove it, I'm going to have to try and fit a UJ joint in situ (not going to be fun!). Does anyone have the size of UJ required? I know the width of the cup is 27mm, but I'm getting various overall lengths ranging from 78.5mm up to 81.5mm as I'm struggling to measure the one insitu.

Many Thanks!

can you please show us a picture of it so perhaps we can see what is held on where and how? It does sometimes help to see the bits and pieces thanks; I would imagine that the part you are talking about is held on with a taper and a keyway but I may me wrong.

Jeremy

Thanks Jeremy - yes, I believe you are correct with regards to the key/taper.

This is a photo of what I'm battling against. The d link is there as I used this for the ratchet strap.



I'm hoping this will work as I'm posting it from my phone!

Also worth mentioning, that I put a bolt in the hole in the centre, to push against the pumps shaft internally. this didn't work and sheared the bolt . I'm having an absolute mare with it at the moment, I can tell you that!

The uj is 82mmx27mm. You need to make up a puller. Piece of inch round bar through the yoke holes. Drill a hole in the middle of it's length to line up with the pump shaft. Either weld a nut over the hole or tap the hole to receive a threaded bar or long threaded bolt which can then be wound in against the end of the pump shaft and pull the yoke off. IYKWIM!

All sorted and back together again now.

Ended up installing a new UJ insitu as no matter what we tried, we couldn't get it off. A "fun" couple of hours were had, hanging upside down in the engine bay ensuring the bearings were all in place . Just for future reference, the UJ is the same size as used on early Land Rover Series 3 and can be had for around £4.50.

Anyway, she's running now, a bit smokey when the throttle is blipped, but I'm hoping once it's been run in it will settle down. Thank you to all the chaps who have input. Without you, the digger would still be parked up.

Folks, sorry for the thread hijack! I'm similar to the above poster and rebuilding a 4/98 Leyland out of a JCB 3CX 1981. It's gotten incredibly smoky to with a noticeable tick to the point you can barely breathe when it's running in a fairly open shed so I suspect it's either a stuck valve, rings are worn, cracked liner, etc, but either way a full rebuild is in order.

Quick question. I'm going to do all four liners while I'm at it as a rebuild kit including pistons and liners seems cheap, but, do you have to get the block decked once the liners go in? Or is it a case of just getting the new liners into the block?

You might need to have a read from a manual to see what the liner protrusion should be,but I'd suggest before you pull the old ones,place a straight edge across the 4 liners and measure between it and the block with feeler gauges. Shims are available (possibly old ones already fitted in yours) that fit in the top of the block. You can then fit the new liners without the orings and measure again til you get the right protrusion.

Hi,
The standing height of the liners above the block face is between .003 and .006 in. or if you prefer .08 and 0.15 mm.
The shims come .003, .004 and .005 in. thick. The trick was to try to get them all as near as possible the same.
As Agrimax says sort the standing height out before fitting the seals.

Fred.