JCB 3CX engine?

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Mikerb
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JCB 3CX engine?

Post #1 by Mikerb » Wed Nov 05, 2014 10:05 am

How does someone who doesn't know JCB engines, know which engine is in a 3CX?

Regards

Mike

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Re: JCB 3CX engine?

Post #2 by jcb4cx » Wed Nov 05, 2014 5:11 pm

Mikerb wrote:How does someone who doesn't know JCB engines, know which engine is in a 3CX?

Regards

Mike


how old is it
every village has one , is yours missing you


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Re: JCB 3CX engine?

Post #3 by Mikerb » Fri Nov 07, 2014 12:14 pm

It's a 1987.

It's breathing heavy so need to know which parts to order for it, I'm mechanically minded and have changed pistons and engines on landrovers, but just don't know anything about these JCBs.

Do I just need to change the rings (Can this be done with the engine in situ?), obviously depending on the bore scoring, but I've read about liners for them and wondering if the block needs reboring then liners pressing in.

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Mike


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Re: JCB 3CX engine?

Post #4 by essexpete » Fri Nov 07, 2014 1:25 pm

Is the ID plate on the side in front of the cab missing?

It will be a Perkins 4.236 unless it is an early grey cab type.


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Re: JCB 3CX engine?

Post #5 by agrimax » Fri Nov 07, 2014 2:37 pm

Put pistons,rings and liner sleeves in my white cab 3cx last year.Easy to do with engine in situ.Head off,sump off and pistons out.Didn't bother cleaning carbon lip off the top of the bores and 2 of the liners came out with the pistons.The other 2 tapped out with a thump against a piece of hardwood.Ideally,you should use a proper puller as you don't want to score the block at all. If need be and you're very careful,you can chip them out with a chisel but run the risk of damaging the block!New sleeves are a slip fit, ie tap in with a block of wood, making sure they go in perfectly straight. IIRC the kit was below £300.At that money,a set of rings is a false economy really.


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Re: JCB 3CX engine?

Post #6 by Mikerb » Fri Nov 07, 2014 5:40 pm

@agrimax Cheers, that's answered a lot of questions for me :)
Did it sort the problems out and make a considerable difference?

I found this kit from another post: http://www.parts4engines.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=38&products_id=234
Looks like the one I need.

Also thanks to essexpete, I'll check the ID plate when it stops raining and I get to site and post them up.


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Re: JCB 3CX engine?

Post #7 by agrimax » Fri Nov 07, 2014 10:53 pm

Yes,it sorted it.T'was hard to start and using oil and then had a small knock.Broken rings on one piston that had made their way onto the top of the piston and were beating off the head! All cured.
If you can post us a few pictures of the engine,particularly the rocker cover,we'll maybe be able to be sure of the engine model.It may be a turbo version which would be a T4.236.Would think then that the pistons and rings may be slightly different and possibly dearer. Not sure when the 1000 series engines came in hence asking for pictures.


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Re: JCB 3CX engine?

Post #8 by essexpete » Sat Nov 08, 2014 1:19 am

Did the 000 series phaser engine arrive at the same time as the grey cab? The 000s series is quickly recognisable by a very squared off flat topped rocker cover.


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Re: JCB 3CX engine?

Post #9 by Mikerb » Sat Nov 08, 2014 12:03 pm

I'll take some pictures and post them up this evening.

Agrimax, from all the searching I have done, none of the liners have come out that easily, they either have to be cut out, broken out or pressed out with a lot of pressure usually with special pullers, getting the new ones in looks equally as brutal. Was your white cab a perkins 4.236? I just don't want to start a job and have this problem.


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Re: JCB 3CX engine?

Post #10 by agrimax » Sat Nov 08, 2014 1:23 pm

Yes,mines a 4.236. Had no bother getting the liners out or in but maybe I was just lucky? Did exactly the same on a 4 cylinder Standard engine in a MF 35 too. Not hard to make a puller if you have access to a lathe or you can run a few verticle beads of weld with a mig,down the liners.They should shrink slightly when they cool down.Just don't burn through and weld to the block!! Failing that,they're not hard to break out.A matter of chipping off part of the top and driving a strong screwdriver between the block wall and liner.
The recognised (and professional method) is to have them pressed out and in at a machine shop but I haven't needed to do that yet.


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