L Plates

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Ivor.JCB
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Re: L Plates

Post #11 by Ivor.JCB » Mon May 23, 2022 11:24 am

gecko.cx wrote:Many on this forum are owner operators with little or no previous experience (I'm one), so many hours on youtube are in your future.
There should be an operators manual available somewhere, but if you can't find the correct one for your machine, get earlier and later manuals and find the relevant areas. The 3cx evolved over a long time and not everything got updated from one model to the next.

Have you noticed your gateways suddenly seem narrower than a short time ago?!


So its a mix between working out if it runs on coal or if the Air-con option meant they didn't put rubbers around the widows.
I have worked out I have the massage seat and food spa upgrades though - depending on terrain and weather.

I have downloaded manuals and will compile - maybe we should create a sticky post titled "Oh God I didn't did I - Oh God I did" with helpful tips for first time owners - topics like "How are you going to get the delivery truck up the lane?", "Appropriate gifts to be allowed back into the house for the other half" and of course "Did you have to have such a big one"

And so it begins.


Whitlock 505
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Re: L Plates

Post #12 by Whitlock 505 » Mon May 23, 2022 4:32 pm

Ivor.JCB wrote:
Whitlock 505 wrote:Hi Ivor
Welcome and good luck with getting the 3cx how you want it! What part of Wales are you in? If your close to the valleys I'd willingly pop up and give you some pointers

Ian


Ah a fellow Druid - I am North of Swansea - may have to take you up on that at some point so you can also share in the laughter and tears!


Ivor

No problem at all, would love to come up and have a look at the old girl, I’m currently getting the electrics working on a Hymac 370c I’ll send you a message with my number on here if you want a chat and arrange for a visit
Ian


essexpete
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Re: L Plates

Post #13 by essexpete » Tue May 24, 2022 9:48 am

First up I would do the engine oil and filter.
Check the level and state of the transmission oil. The level will be checked when running or immediately on stopping. Wipe the fluid on a piece of white tissue to see what it looks like. The oil should be clear without any signs of emulsion.
At some point check the rear axle oil level.
Is it 4wd?
A very small squeeze of grease into the ujs would not go amiss.
When stood over night, ease out the hydraulic bung and check for water/emulsion.
If all OK I would use it a little and see all is working then gradually work through a full oil and filter service. If the hydraulic oil seems really clean I would just top up and change the filter.
I have nearly forgotten the gear box behind the shuttle (level plug).


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Re: L Plates

Post #14 by Ivor.JCB » Wed May 25, 2022 9:16 am

essexpete wrote:First up I would do the engine oil and filter.
Check the level and state of the transmission oil. The level will be checked when running or immediately on stopping. Wipe the fluid on a piece of white tissue to see what it looks like. The oil should be clear without any signs of emulsion.
At some point check the rear axle oil level.
Is it 4wd?
A very small squeeze of grease into the ujs would not go amiss.
When stood over night, ease out the hydraulic bung and check for water/emulsion.
If all OK I would use it a little and see all is working then gradually work through a full oil and filter service. If the hydraulic oil seems really clean I would just top up and change the filter.
I have nearly forgotten the gear box behind the shuttle (level plug).


Many thanks for my weekend to-do list. I am still tooling up as well at the moment - my spanner and socket range may need an update!

Yes its 4WD too.

Where is the best place to source service items for these by the way?

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Re: L Plates

Post #15 by mambo » Wed May 25, 2022 6:13 pm

https://vicaryplant.com/ are pretty good they also have an eBay shop


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Ivor.JCB
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Re: L Plates

Post #16 by Ivor.JCB » Sat May 28, 2022 4:11 pm

mambo wrote:https://vicaryplant.com/ are pretty good they also have an eBay shop


Many thanks - first day of playing with it - still very much learning how to dig a hole!!!

More knobs that a knobs convention!


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Re: L Plates

Post #17 by Ivor.JCB » Sun May 29, 2022 1:44 pm

So surprise fuel gauge not working - not wanting to play the 'bleeding' game following running out - how much Diesel per hour do these 1983 perkins burn? Put 20 litres in her and tank sounded low yesterday but I am wondering if there is a rough measurement I can use before I rush off for more on field self training and get stuck.

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Re: L Plates

Post #18 by Slooby » Thu Jun 02, 2022 1:47 am

Ivor.JCB wrote:So surprise fuel gauge not working - not wanting to play the 'bleeding' game following running out - how much Diesel per hour do these 1983 perkins burn? Put 20 litres in her and tank sounded low yesterday but I am wondering if there is a rough measurement I can use before I rush off for more on field self training and get stuck.


Haven't got a clue how thirsty or not my '87 3CX is, and no working gauge either...I've just got used to remembering the bleeding sequence and toying with the idea of creating a sight glass but never getting round to it...much like finishing one of my existing projects before acquiring another...
CMN Stuff: MF65, Thwaites Nimline, JCB 3CX
Projects: S11a 88" V8 Hybrid, 2 x S111 109"s, Mk11 Mini, Harrison L5A :doh:
Ish projects: T25 Camper, ST675R
Just added: Alpine S5 & Bridgeport Mk2 :wtf:
Sorely Missed: Impreza, E39 M5


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Re: L Plates

Post #19 by Ivor.JCB » Fri Jun 03, 2022 8:40 am

Slooby wrote:
Ivor.JCB wrote:So surprise fuel gauge not working - not wanting to play the 'bleeding' game following running out - how much Diesel per hour do these 1983 perkins burn? Put 20 litres in her and tank sounded low yesterday but I am wondering if there is a rough measurement I can use before I rush off for more on field self training and get stuck.


Haven't got a clue how thirsty or not my '87 3CX is, and no working gauge either...I've just got used to remembering the bleeding sequence and toying with the idea of creating a sight glass but never getting round to it...much like finishing one of my existing projects before acquiring another...


Thanks - haven't found the bleeding sequence in an documention kindly pointed at here - will try YT in case I need it - but will keep adding the go go juice in the hope of not getting stuck.

Try to clear a half acre field - not sure if I should be pushing the weeds and roots or dragging them at the moment.

Im hooked though!!!

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Re: L Plates

Post #20 by Slooby » Fri Jun 03, 2022 11:50 pm

Ivor.JCB wrote:Thanks - haven't found the bleeding sequence in an documention kindly pointed at here - will try YT in case I need it - but will keep adding the go go juice in the hope of not getting stuck.

Try to clear a half acre field - not sure if I should be pushing the weeds and roots or dragging them at the moment.

Im hooked though!!!


Bleeding sequence is in the manual, however it (lifted from a previous reply of mine elsewhere) is:

Slooby wrote:Just been through this with mine; the manual (here) describes the bleeding process,but essentially:

Crack the fuel outlet union on the debris trap (chassis leg) and the gravity feed from the tank should force fuel out of it then tighten up the union
Move to the fuel filter (on the engine), crack the fuel outlet union then on the mechanical lift pump pump the manual overide lever until fuel starts coming out. Tighten up the union.
Now move to the mechanical injector pump and there are two bleed screws on the pump body (you'll need to refer to the manual for the positions) crack the lower one and manually pump the lift pump till fuel comes out, tighten the bleed screw, move to the upper bleed screw and repeat.
Now ideally you need an assistant for this, wear fuel proof gloves and get a rag; go to the injector furthest from the pump and crack the inlet union, get your assistant to briefly crank the engine, while you with rag in hand watch the union when fuel starts coming out of the union catch it with the rag, stop cranking and tighten the union, repeat for the next injector working back towards the pump and so on. If you are unlucky, like I was, you may have to repeat the injector bleeding a couple of times. Mine actually fired up by the time I'd got to the last injector on the third attempt. It's a matter of perservering with it till all the air is removed.

Fiddle with anything on the fuel system on these and you need to bleed them


If you want to go leveling stuff I've found that opening the clamshell bucket and then rotating it so that the inside edge of the top clam is able to scrape the ground and then going backwards with it is pretty effective...takes a bit of practice but you'll find your stride and it can do a nice job of leveling that way, unless there are tree roots, the clamshell method isn't great with tree roots

They are addictive though, mine clearly loves me as, bar my daily, it's my only project vehicle that can sit for months and yet fire up on the first turn of the key. It's also been great at helping move felled trees and branches about...
CMN Stuff: MF65, Thwaites Nimline, JCB 3CX
Projects: S11a 88" V8 Hybrid, 2 x S111 109"s, Mk11 Mini, Harrison L5A :doh:
Ish projects: T25 Camper, ST675R
Just added: Alpine S5 & Bridgeport Mk2 :wtf:
Sorely Missed: Impreza, E39 M5


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