B275 International Harvester

[ChadB275]

Hey guys,

Picked up a 1961 B275 International Harvester in the fall and I've completely overhauled the engine, fuel system, clutch etc. Also I am getting rid of the generator and installing a alternator and converting to negative ground blah blah blah.

What I am having trouble finding out (and I've gone through every manual I can find) is the type of fuild and how much is required for the rear differential and the transmission housings. I found that the transmission takes 20 quarts of hytran, I assume that it's drained from the cover directly beneath the shift levers and filled from the plug beside the shift levers.

Does the differential recieve it's lubrication from the transmission? I suspect not but nowhere in the manuals I have does it say where to check a level, where to fill or drain and what type of fluid it takes.

I'll take some pictures later to show the area's I'm talking about and my progress on the project. Once I get it running it's loader mounting time!!!

Anyway any advice/information would be greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks!!

-Chad

[GordonG]

I have a B275 1963 and in it the transmission and the differential use the same fluid. Also a drain below the shaft of the power take off got a lot of water out of it.

[iseki TS4000]

Well I have just started; likewise on a 1965 petrol run model and the diff had a seperate drain plug at the back for what thats worth. Contained about a litre after first draining the gearbox of 20 litres of oil and water emulsification. The manual I have on disc[DVD] said 5GALLONS of oil in the gearbox and it is a digital version of the genuine International McCormick print. Similar situation to user chadB275 though the quantity sounds too much and mine says not; what grade oil to use. So I WILL take that as read and apply the knowledge thank you !
Also as GordonG found my PTO box contained immulsified oil and some settled water in the quantity of approx.2 litres. Just a pointer in case y'all don't. First machine I have ever removed the sump from to clean the pan. Oil drain was fairly blocked with sludge. Low hours fortunately but will testify it NEVER had the oil renewed. Best check I could suggest if, in the state of this one I have. Also the sump had a bash at some stage that destroyed the little pickup pan for the pump. Still under oil fortunately. Those kingpins need checking in many cases apparently , but found easy to remove & clean/regrease , refit . improved the steering hugely. Good luck with yuh project. I for one will be pleased to read any fact or food for thought you may publish about this tractor.

[ChadB275]

Another thing I found when getting this old girl going is that it's almost impossible to prime the oil system using the internal pump prior to first start up.
Somewhere in my hunt for information I learned the NEVER NEVER NEVER start up a rebuild without first priming the oil system (which makes sence).
So I ended up building a little air over oil accumulator fitted with a pressure gauge and a tap off for my shop air and connected a line from the bottom to my oil gallery on the right hand side of the block. I filled my accumulator up with oil, put the cap on, connected my shop air (regulated to 35-40psi) and turned the engine over by hand a few times until I saw oil and air bubbles start to come out of the rocker arm oil gallery. I pumped the entire 5.4 qrts that the engine requries into the tractor like this to ensure the system was properly primed.

I tell you what, when start up time came this weekend the old girl fired right up like a dream and I had oil pressure right away, purred like a kittten. Let the engine break in as per manaul specs, dumped the oil and changed the filter, loaded her up real good moving snow the next day, beauty.

The alternator keeps the battery up like a boss, had my volt meter on her for a bit to see how close she regulates and it only fluctuates .03 volts. very nice and smooth regulation.

I did pull all 3 drainplugs on the PTO housing, transmission housing and the rear diff. Not a lot of water in the bottom, maybe a litre between the 3 low spots, but the oil was very milky. My Case dealer recommended using Hytran fluid as it is well suited for transmission/differential applications so I went with a similar product.

NEXT JOB, LOADER INSTALLATION. (I encorporated a few quick connect couplers into my hydraulic system so i can just tap off of them and not have to isolate my control valve or run a separate pump off the pto.) But I think the loader is going to have to wait until spring now.

[Ironhead]

Chad - I have a B250d (almost the same as your 275) and somewhere I found a free download PDF of the "Service Man's Handbook" (repair manual) for the B250 & B275 - send me your email and send you a copy.

UPDATE:
it was the downloads for this site where I found the PDF for the "service man's manual"
Click on the Downloads
scroll down to Farm tractors
Click on the download for IH and there it is

[Willbilly]

Hi for service info try type into search cleancomputes.com/Cub/B-275/Index if it doesn't bring you there post back and I'll check the link service manual and sales brochure very nice

[TrevorJ]

Welcome to the forum

Yes the site will be still there.

[jambalini]

Hi Chad, Just read your post and was wondering if you could give me some details on the alternator you used when converting your B275 from the generator. I want to convert mine as well but don't know what alternator to buy. I'm quite happy altering the bracket etc., but want to make sure the amps supplied are ok as well as making sure it comes with the correct dia and sized pulley. A lucas etc part No. would be ideal.

thanks

Andy

[Matthewat]

Hi,

Don't suppose anyone out there has a B250 bull pinion cage spare lying around do they? I started changing the brake discs on the weekend, found oil was leaking through to them from the diff, so went to remove the bearing cage, without removing the bull gear first, so snapped the casting! If anyone has one or knows of one (not the usual spare requirement!) please get in touch.

Cheers

Matt