My advice to anyone replicating would be to buy a 90 or 100cm topper or a small flail if you go this route. With the 120 it struggles wading into eye level brush going up hill and its got a tendancy to wheelie up really steep slopes until the topper wheel stops it, but of course by then you have no steering. On the flat it can just cope with shoulder height marsh grass, but then I haven't set my timing with a strobe or anything else fancy either so I'm probably a little down on power.
It'd also be easier to use fergie lift arms, as they are longer than the more common micro tractor arm kits, and it would make the job easier in terms of locating the lower 3 point pivot. And a one way pto clutch + spline adapter (you can use a fergie adaptor, its the same pitch) is mandatory, as the tractor will just keep going on momentum from the topper when you press the clutch otherwise.
The majority of the 3 point lower is located on the towing hitch points, as it connects to the chassis up front and the rear axle casting at the rear. Some motorcycle fork stancions turned out to be perfect to make the lower 3 point spacer tube, and I bored some 10mm steel plate to suit the fork tube od, slipped it through and welded in place. Then welded the plate to the original tow bar, and fabricated a heavier mounting for the tow bar that picked up on 3 mounting areas instead of one.
I'm going to add a extra cross brace to the portal housings for extra ruggedness and refab a top link bracket to hold it in double shear, and might change the pivot locations on the lower arms to give me more lift range...
Works though, and no reworking after taming the acre of wildness we call a garden
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If you think I'm destroying a beautiful old tractor, I have no qualms with modifying it to make it more useful, I saved a pair of them from the scrapper, the other one is the older original one with belt pto etc, and this one is the one we do work with and had snails inside the engine when I bought it .