The Classic Machinery Network

Trevor-thanks for feed back.
The nuts are a bit special but not £6/50 worth of special going to enquire about getting a batch made,Probably get a bigger shock.
Still quite a few stockists dealing with BSF/BSW here,anyway will keep CMT informed.
Norm

when you put heads back on make shure you don't over talk the head bolts. from what I remember from the last one the talke value is fairly low. and threads can strip. with regards to the decompressors. the engines I deal with have bothe cylinders joined. makes starting easier if it back fires the second cylder should stop the engine without it spinning back several times. if the engine oil is to thick it will also make starting difficult check the manual for the right one for you. General rule is the lighter the oil the easier to start but oil need replacing more often and engine wears faster.

Hi david
The head nuts are in confined spaces and can just get ring spanner in,I had to grind lead in off spanner to get good purchase on the hex,s, so the torque will be down to trial & error plus a little experience & luck.
Going to change oil anyway as its like mud ,the machine has been stuck in an old railway siding for 5 years and was in a sorry plight but I,m getting there.
Norm

Happy new year all
I,ve stripped heads off petters PH2 engine going to refit at wkend.
Silly question time. Can the push rod tubes be fitted after heads are on
Norm

Hi all.
The old Winget 4s is now getting a coat of looking at. Ive just took the mudguards off and refurbed them took pics but struggling to get them up.
Norm

getting there

Still getting there.

These pics should have been first Im still trying to get the hang of this, anyway getting rid of tin worm. If it looks a little cramped in garage that's because it is.

If when you try and start the engine it fires but doesn't pick up then the timing may be advanced. An engine in good order will produce blue smoke ( and some excess knock) when warm and running, if this is the case.
It will not be black, this indicates injectors (smelly idle) or retarded timing. Grey/ blue smoke being oil related.
The manual makes it sound really easy to time this engine, but in my experience the g (?) mark is normally missing from the injector racks. IF THERE IS NO MARK I WOULD LEAVE WELL ALLONE. tow it and work out when its running, if you have a timing problem.
PH2's can be difficult to start if the valve seats are set back too far in the head ( poor rebuild quality) and more commonly bumping clearance. However the last 2 points wont make it kick back.
Get the engine right and as an old mechanic said to me " You start it and realise- only god can stop it now"
Normally on my 425 (PH2) you decompress both cylinders, turn the crankshaft up to 15 times in cold weather to wet the cylinders. On my 425, which has an almost new engine, I learnt a trick.
I found that if you turn the engine over and find the point where compression on the first cylinder begins. On mine this is as you start to bring the handle up (see drawing). Obviously this is only occurs every 2nd turn of the crank. This is the point at which you theoretically heave the handle upwards, having released the DE compressors. However you never know when you drop the DE compressors where about's in the four stroke cycle you are, but if as you drop the DE compressors it doesn't fire, give an extra lunge (trying to almost lift the machine off the ground) next time you pass the beginning of compression point. a difficult thing to explain, but an awareness, allows you not to loose steam!
Hope this make sense!!

Had ago at fitting new out riggers, hope fotos come out in right order if at all. It took longer uploading fotos than the rigger repairs.
Norm.