winget 4s dumper

[mechman]

Hi all
Has anyone any tips on converting a PH2 to electric start i.e. straight swop engine- used parts or otherwise.
Ive seen one cobbled together using taper fit bushes and twin veed pulley machined to fit spurious flywheel and starter but not sure if thats the way to go .Any advice greatly appreciated.
norm

[Nick aka Digger]

Hi Norman, I have never come across a PH2 with the decompression levers joined so assuming this is the case then as someone has alluded to you must firstly set the fuel rack to the start position, this is done by pulling out the fuel over load adjustment screw and pushing the racks right open.Then open both decompression levers and turn the engine over until you can hear a good injection "creak" from both cylinders. Then the most important part to avoid injury, drop one lever and turn the engine over until it comes up on compression if you are pushing down on the starting handle then pull it out and turn it 180 degrees so as you are pulling UP on compression stroke - THIS IS ESSENTIAL TO AVOID INJURY in case of "kickback". With the starting handle in this position, fuel system primed and ONE lever down you can now swing the engine over, the first revolution on your "up swing" will not be compression stoke the second one will be and your engine should start then drop the other decomp lever straight away. Couple of points NEVER put your thumb over the handle always hold handle just in the palm, I usually start on the cylinder with the most compression and as long as you are pulling UP on the compression stoke and you do suffer a kickback the handle will get pulled out of your grip and not pushed into it if pushing down. Hope this helps regards Nick.

[essexpete]

Hi Norman, I have never come across a PH2 with the decompression levers joined so assuming this is the case then as someone has alluded to you must firstly set the fuel rack to the start position, this is done by pulling out the fuel over load adjustment screw and pushing the racks right open.Then open both decompression levers and turn the engine over until you can hear a good injection "creak" from both cylinders. Then the most important part to avoid injury, drop one lever and turn the engine over until it comes up on compression if you are pushing down on the starting handle then pull it out and turn it 180 degrees so as you are pulling UP on compression stroke - THIS IS ESSENTIAL TO AVOID INJURY in case of "kickback". With the starting handle in this position, fuel system primed and ONE lever down you can now swing the engine over, the first revolution on your "up swing" will not be compression stoke the second one will be and your engine should start then drop the other decomp lever straight away. Couple of points NEVER put your thumb over the handle always hold handle just in the palm, I usually start on the cylinder with the most compression and as long as you are pulling UP on the compression stoke and you do suffer a kickback the handle will get pulled out of your grip and not pushed into it if pushing down. Hope this helps regards Nick.

Good explanation there.

[mechman]

Thanks Nick
All info taken on board. Ive got the heads off at the moment as it only fired on one pot and decided to look into it.
I found one bad injector and a blocked exaust port,no wear on bores so i am waiting for some head nuts before reassembly
norm
P.S the decompress levers have a square block with a cotter pin thru them and there both linked together looks like manufacturers job

[Nick aka Digger]

Hi Norm, would it be possible to separate them will make starting much easier and safer. As you have removed the heads maybe worth checking the bumping clearance ie distance between cylinder head and piston at TDC as you mentioned in an earlier post about being to much compression this can be adjusted by adding or removing the shims at the base of the cylinder barrels sorry I can,t remember the measurement off top of my head but believe was around 40 thou but please check this out Nick

[mechman]

Hi Nick
I,m going to assume (not the done thing i know) that this PH2 has never been apart, So not going any deeper into it. I had to use the gas axe on every head nut before they seen things my way, Thats where the assuming comes in.
If it behaves it will get some more TLC

[mechman]

Hi all
Does anyone know of any reasonably priced outlets for some PH2 cylinder head nuts.I priced some the other day at £6-50 each inc vat,they,ve got to be having a laugh hav,nt they?
Bah humbug.
Norm

[TrevorJ]

The original nuts may be alloy compatible - something not really seen too much in "modern" short life spam times.

A high grade nut should suffice as long as the length of the nut is as long as the original head nuts.

However they'd most likely be BSF thread, which maybe in the UK "might" still be freely available at a specialist nut and bolt shop. High tensile that is, and not the bright steel ones - yeah, a bloke could easily get by with a tap set if he only wanted bright steel nuts.

New "High tensile" nuts and bolts in BSF in Australia are as rare as hens teeth for lengths in common use on automotive gear. Ebay does well out of it. Commercially there's a very small almost pointless range here but ... It's the daftest thing ever.

[Jeremy Rowland]

Hi all
Does anyone know of any reasonably priced outlets for some PH2 cylinder head nuts.I priced some the other day at £6-50 each inc vat,they,ve got to be having a laugh hav,nt they?
Bah humbug.
Norm

As Trevor suggests they will be available from a local fastener dealer' you will need to have a sample if you have one so that they can confirm the thread, older British sizes such as BSF and BSW are now becoming harder to obtain so they will be expensive compared to metric fasteners, however they should not be that expensive.
I have a good local fastener company by where I live so if you get stuck I will give you their number they tend to have just about anything.

Jeremy

[mechman]

Thanks Jeremy
The nuts are 7/16 BSF made from round bar with a hex milled on one end.
The hex is the next size down from the size it should be for the dia of the thread,I suppose its for the limited space available for them. Going to try local eng comps for cost of making new batch
Norm