The Classic Machinery Network

If you cant source the -0.030" then have them ream the -0.020" out to suit but first carefully measure the crank journals first and make sure they are round and not oval and that -0.030" ios the correct size. It is worth sticking with this engine but drop the crank so you can measure it correctly or you may be wasting your time and money. Have not heard of any issues dropping the flywheels off these engine but happy to hear if it is an issue. There are no short cuts to making an engine run properly. It is not always about spending a lot of money but more about spending a lot of time and care.

My Petters PH2, 7lb mallet+ puller+ ox/acet, before it surrendered.

Are they a tapered fit or a parallel fit over a boss?

They're parallel fit on the shaft but they don't like to be separated. The gib key that locates the shaft to the flywheel can (will) refuse to cooperate. Ask me how I know.

Ah, a gibb key. These can be a challenge, ask me how I know. It took me 2 weeks of constant drilling welding and slide hammering to remove 2 flywheels off a McDonald Crude Oil engine I got running again and that was the easy part.
I made a gibb key puller by shaping some tensile steal into a curved taper but in my case it removed the heads off the gibb key. So much fun!

I'd like to keep the engine I'm not moaning but I've just finished chemotherapy and my hands won't work properly it's so frustrating when you cannot pick up nuts and bolts I had an engineer measure the crank it was -029.7 so he recommended 0.030 I don't know how thick the white metal is on the shells to ream, only £20 ISH to buy he's coming to see me again next week I'll get him to measure it again
it would be a shame I've had the head reconditioned new new pump new oil pump piston rings small end gaskets ..Vince

E83Wvince wrote::D I'd like to keep the engine I'm not moaning but I've just finished chemotherapy and my hands won't work properly it's so frustrating when you cannot pick up nuts and bolts I had an engineer measure the crank it was -029.7 so he recommended 0.030 I don't know how thick the white metal is on the shells to ream, only £20 ISH to buy he's coming to see me again next week I'll get him to measure it again
it would be a shame I've had the head reconditioned new new pump new oil pump piston rings small end gaskets ..Vince

Hope you make a full and good recovery.

Jeremy

Thanks I'm trying

There will be enough meat on the new bearing shells to remove 0.010" by reaming or honing out at an engineering shop or unless you have the tooling to do so. Don't give up on the engine as it will give you a lot of pleasure in return once running.
Not sure if you want to go as far as removing the crank and have it machined down to the next available std size.
Wish you luck with the engine and your full recovery too, take care.

I'd love to strip it right down but not possible at the moment the annoying thing is it was running then started knocking the oil ring was in the bottom and no white metal on the shells
Oil was been pumped around unsure what caused it like I said my fingers won't pickup nuts and bolts because I'm trying to get back to where I was don't like giving in I cannot pull the vans in or out without the dumper that's why I thought about another engine Thank you all for the encouragement it means a lot