Thwaites 1 ton petter won’t start

[JCBMaff]

Evening all,

I’ve got a problem with my Thwaites 1 ton dumper, I believe it’s a Petter PH1 engine? She was running spot on and then just stopped, I traced that to a loose connection on the injector pipe, she then ran fine for a while, however I now can’t get her to start! I was hoping someone could shed some light on a few queries I’ve got?
In the pictures attached, what is the lever I’ve arrowed in red for?
What position should the fuel pump slider I’ve arrowed in green be in for starting her up?
And what should be between the pump slider and the arm that comes from the block that I’ve circled in red? I’m guessing it shouldn’t be a broken spring and a tie wrap?
Should I try a new pump?

Any help would be muchly appreciated
Cheers guys

[cobbadog]

G'Day Craig,
First I am not familiar with the Petter engines but do a search either here in this Forum or a Google search for a workshop manual. I have found some Lister ones by doing that and it is very handy.
So I don't know the right answers to your questions but the first question about the red arrow I wonder if it is a decompression lever, guess only.
Green arrow sorry no idea,
Red circle nope broken it should not be! lol

Something that you can try without the manual is to check you have fuel running freely to the engine. So start at the tank to see if fuel does run out, next to the filter inlet and outlet because the filter may be blocked. Now down to the inlet side of the pump then outlet but to check this you will need to disconnect the outlet line and crank the engine over and look for a dribble of fuel pulse out. If all good here go to the injector and unscrew the line to the injector and crank again to see you have fuel pulsing out. If possible pull the injector and connect it to the fuel line and crank while watching the injector tip to see that the fuel is atomising. All of this confirms your fuel system, if this is not right you have to find out why.

With good fuel and compression it should start up unless there is a timing issue with the pump or spill timing. Something that also might be a quick check is a short spray of either down the air intake, if it starts on that you have a fuel problem.

[Johnson Dumper]

[FOWLER MAN]

Hi Craig,
I guess the previous posts have answered most of your questions.
The broken spring and cable tie are as you say clearly not original. Not to worry. The spring is only there to link the governor lever to the pump rack extension, (slider), and the cable tie will do the job in the absence of a new spring.
It is certainly not contributing to your starting problem.
I have posted lots of stuff on here about setting up these fuel systems including spill timing etc. but if it was running OK it can't be a timing issue. Probably needs the fuel lines cleaned through and probably a new filter element .

Fred

[essexpete]

Another trick can be to open the injector pump bleed screw and pressurise the tank a little. I have done it by getting intimate withe the filler after giving it clean first. Have also blown back systems with a low pressure inflator.

[JCBMaff]

Gents,
Thanks for the input, I’ve had the chance to look at her this morning, and I think I’ve found the issue
The pipe from the pump to the injector is leaking at the injector end, I’ve attached some photos, the pump end is fine, but the injector end I can’t get the olive back on?
Does anyone know where I can get a replacement olive or pipe?
Thanks again

[JCBMaff]

[essexpete]

Probably need one off a breaker or get one made up by diesel firm. Either might be tricky at the moment.

[cobbadog]

Some plumbing stores might have a new one but I get all mine from the local hydraulic store because he has an interest in this stuff and does well out of selling them. A local diesel pump/injector shop will definitely will have new olives. They are not designed to be reused, as you fit a new one in place and tighten it up it compresses slightly onto the pipe and is why you are having trouble fitting it up again. Over the years I have replaced many fuel lines for bothe diesel and petrol and keep a stock of the common size copper tube then buy the fittings I need and make new lines. They are quite cheap for them to knock up a complete new one if needed just take what you have and put it on the counter and in a blink of the eye it is done. Pending on the overall length of the tube probably about AU$15.00.

[Tillywolves]

https://www.stationaryengineparts.com/p ... ector.html