The Classic Machinery Network

Next question - I understand you should not flick open the decompressor to stop the engine but where is the device I need to find to stop it correctly? The guy I bought it from used the decompressor. Still clueless!

Also there is the remains of a decal on the engine which looks like a flattened diamond shape. Any clues to maker from that?
Thanks

There should be a stop lever on the fuel injection pump; de-compressor levers are used to start engines not stop them.

Jeremy

Sounds like a Petter engine. Look where the accelarater pedal is attached and what it moves. Hold the rack closed to stop.

essexpete wrote:Sounds like a Petter engine. Look where the accelarater pedal is attached and what it moves. Hold the rack closed to stop.

Yes,
Either lift the fuel priming lever(s) on the side of the pump mounting housing(s) to the vertical position, or you can slide and hold the pump linkage against the spring till the engine stops as Pete says.
Fred.

OK I have that sorted. I started up and drove it off the trailer. Virtually no brakes which is scary. The engine was left to tick over and it runs slower and slower almost stopping until the govenor operates and it slowly picks up revs again. Is the correct or should it tick over at steady rpm?
Then there was a big oil leak from under the filter housing. I cant see if it is the filter gasket or something much worse?
It never leaked when it was run before when i collected it.

Should hold a constant revs I would think
Maybe the governor has no oil or maybe its badly worn either way worth checking the oil in the governor first
Other things I have found that cause a diesel to hunt bad are compressions all over the place and needing a valve grind

Paul

Mrsmackpaul wrote:Should hold a constant revs I would think
Maybe the governor has no oil or maybe its badly worn either way worth checking the oil in the governor first
Other things I have found that cause a diesel to hunt bad are compressions all over the place and needing a valve grind

Paul

Hi Paul,
The governor is attached to the cam shaft gear in these engines has no oil supply of its own, it is lubricated by the sump oil.

May be the engine just needs a good run to free things up. I would first check that all the pump linkages are free and lubricated and that there is no restriction to the fuel supply,(filter etc.)

The governor operates the pump, (pumps), by means of a "push rod" which goes through the bored centre of the cam shaft and controls the external lever, ( on the flywheel end), which in turn operates the pump rack. This "push rod" can become sticky in the cam shaft and could be the source of the problem.

The external spring on the pump rack is adjusted to balance the force exerted by the governor springs and this may need adjusting.

If when you have tried the easy fixes you think it is the push rod sticking in the cam shaft I can talk you through sorting it.

Fred

First off the oil leak is "through" the canister! After getting a new filter and changing the oil I primed it and new oil still leaked. There is a pinhole in the canister bowl so I need to source a new one of these.
There is a spring missing I think between the pump and the throttle lever on the pump rack. This would hold tension in the rack thus allowing the tickover to be constant and then the throttle lever would adjust the rack to increase revs.
All the rubber gaiters have fallen away on the rack.

I can see the lever for the pump prime now but it seems detached from anything inside? I don't need this to start it as it will start OK without. I can move it up and down and in and out! Is that right?

So I need the spring and canister parts just to get it going.

Oil filter is fixed by local welder who brazed up the dodgy bits. Refitted and no oil leaks. Fuel filter changed and all the gunk cleaned out of the bowl. New air filter fitted. Fuel system bled and finally re started up so running OK. The priming lever does work as I checked that when bleeding the injector pipe.The little spring on the throttle to rack is falling off so needs a fix - it seems a simple job to make up a temporary spring which would keep the tickover steady until I can source a new one. This would be the engine sorted for now.
I can get wheel spin (on gravel) if I drop the clutch so I guess that is OK.
Next job is the brakes. I can see one side does not move at all so time to take the wheel and drum off and see whats going on.
I need three stud wheels if anyone has a source as the rims are too far gone.