Removing pin from 1982 JCB 3CX steering ram.

[gecko.cx]

No problem mixing (similar) oils - that's how the suppliers produce different weights. They just blend heavier and lighter oils to give what ever viscosity you want.
Then there are the additives. The cheapest oils have little of no additives, while the better oils have anti-wear, anti-oxidation, temp stabilisers etc.
Don't go too cheap - it'll be in there a long time!

I have used 46 grade in my old machines for years.

In hot climates, 46 is recommended from new. You may find it is a bit sluggish on cold mornings, but you won't have a problem adding some 46.

[Spancan]

Yes existing oil looks reasonably clear.

[Matchless?58]

All good then. The only problem is keeping the oil in the damn machine ! Mine leaks at the slightest excuse . Latest one is a leak from the stabiliser leg , not looking forward to that one . That will have to wait until spring I will just keep topping up until then .

[essexpete]

I think if a machine has stood idle for some time then the seals deteriorate and harden then when used all starts to weep. Sun light plays havoc on tyres and hoses as well.

[AJ.]

When I reseal those rams I only remove the rod , leave the cylinder attached, no need to remove it.
AJ

[Spancan]

Eventually solved the problem. Had to angle grind though the top and bottom of the pin, remove the steering ram, then drill the remains of the pins out. I needed to replace the rod as it was badly scoured. Found a guy locally who welded a new rod on, and resealed it for £130. Very happy with that ! I now have a problem with oil leaking from the rear wheel (see pics). Any ideas please.

DB0346F1-A5AD-4480-939E-C2EEC35092E9.jpeg

9437E400-2033-4870-B193-91A4C9EF09D4.jpeg

[Jeremy Rowland]

Looks like the hub seal has blown; I have never done one on a machine like this.

Jeremy

[gecko.cx]

I haven't been in there myself, but is looks straight forward.
The parts list shows a few components as "if fitted", so you're best off going shopping after you've stripped it so you know what you're dealing with.
The main seal (25) will obviously need replacing. I'd recommend replacing the outer O-ring (21) while you are there - if you use a sealant instead, the surface area is large, so pulling it apart next time will be very difficult.
Also, check the breathers are clear. If blocked, as it warms, the pressure can push the seal out (or just make a poor seal leak badly)

this is the P8, but it'll be close

[Spancan]

Thanks for that. I only use the machine for about a couple of hours per month to tidy up our muck heep as we have horses. I assume that the oil is the 90 gear oil that is topped up in the back axle. Can I get away with just topping it up before use. The other problem is that the 32mm ring spanner I have is slightly under size for the top up plug. Is the plug AF (1982 machine) size. If so do you know the size as I will need to buy a AF socket. I think it is possibly 1.5/16 in ?? Thanks for your help.

[gecko.cx]

Seeing that diff cover tells me it's very different from my axle (so my suggestion above may not be valid). Do you have dry brakes?

If it's only a slow leak, given the axle capacity, you can loose a lot before the level will drop significantly.
Do check the breathers though.

(I've got no info on the bolt size)