The Classic Machinery Network

Another fleeting visit has finally seen off the rest of the hydraulic pipe and hose replacement; just need to top up the hydraulic oil now, I did give her a very brief run just to check the work done was okay which fortunately it is, there is no point putting lots of oil in for it to leak back out had there been a problem. Today I fitted the steel pipe and another five hoses, job finally done so far as the control hoses are concerned.

Jeremy

I was supposed to meet up with my usual gang of friends today but things fell apart so I decided to do a 'flying visit' to my machines, normally I would not want to do this because of the distance involved I like to plan ahead to make sure that I accomplish something good on each visit. To cut a long story short I only had a new battery to fit on the Poclain and decided I would change the water drain tap on the engine block of the Hymac while I was up there, an easy day I thought to myself.
I cleaned out the battery box and removed the one remaining battery so I could check the electrolyte level then fitted the new batteries I decided to run the Hymac up while I was still working on the Poclain.
You know sometimes you get that feeling that you should really check something important well I thought I'd pop the rear canopy open and check that the drive belts were okay, I felt confident that they were because the last time I had the machine running I put my multimeter across the battery terminals to check that she was charging okay which she was.
When I got the canopy open I made the crushing discovery that the drive belt for the cooling fan had jumped the pulley whoever had last done the job was at least decent enough to cable tie some new belts over the assembly to save me having to disconnect the hydraulic pump coupling.
I'm just hoping that the engine is not now 'cooked' which would really pee me off somewhat; to be fair she has not worked hard because of the hydraulic oil leaks and she does not smoke but that is no guarantee that all is good so here's hoping.

Jeremy

Okay so I quickly got a day booked off work and set about the task of looking at the engine I had forgot to mention that she had blown one of the head gasket rings which makes a bit of noise as the engine gets warmer.
I had decided that I would take all of the cylinder heads off as I did not fancy doing another one at a later date so do the job correctly first time, the good news was that when I did whip the heads off I found that there was no scuffing of the pistons and bores so no added expense there, I also discovered the cylinder which had blown the gasket sealing ring (see photo) the bad news however is that the cylinder head studs on these engines are subject to rot and five broke as I unfastened them, one of which simply 'popped' as I loosened another head stud it was held by the thinnest bit of metal so it would have failed sooner or later.
I had to lift the cylinders off the engine block where the studs were broken; I intend replacing all of the studs anyway as a matter of course so I am just left with the task of locating the bits and removing the broken studs which I suspect may be easier said than done.

Jeremy

Thanks for such a comprehensive photo account! What a pig with the studs. Good luck Jeremy.

Hi Jeremy.
What's the plan of attack with the snapped studs?
Norm.

essexpete wrote:Thanks for such a comprehensive photo account! What a pig with the studs. Good luck Jeremy.

Thanks Pete; yes the studs promise to be a real pain in a certain part of the anatomy I will let you know how I get on removing them, stud extractors/easy outs are not the solution here!

Jeremy

What about a template with the holes the same PCD as the stud holes fixed by OK stud holes to give you an accurate guide, is the block ally or iron?
Norm

mechman wrote:What about a template with the holes the same PCD as the stud holes fixed by OK stud holes to give you an accurate guide, is the block ally or iron?
Norm

The block is cast iron a template would still need to be hardened but is not impossible to do; going to try carefully welding a washer onto the remains of the stud and a nut on the washer first and take it from there, well that's the initial thought process anyway.

Jeremy

Jeremy Rowland wrote:

mechman wrote:What about a template with the holes the same PCD as the stud holes fixed by OK stud holes to give you an accurate guide, is the block ally or iron?
Norm

The block is cast iron a template would still need to be hardened but is not impossible to do; going to try carefully welding a washer onto the remains of the stud and a nut on the washer first and take it from there, well that's the initial thought process anyway.

Jeremy

That is a method often used by the agric lads and I think the heat and cooling effect may help as well.

Jeremy
I've used the nut and washer method a few times and with success. the template idea I've used before where little stud was available, also using anti clockwise drill bits with template also worked.
Norm.