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 Post subject: Re: Rebuilding 10RB
PostPosted: Wed Sep 22, 2010 11:01 am 
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billh wrote:
alchemist wrote:
billh wrote:
Hello All,

8-) hi there, hope alls going well with the build, i can help a little here as my father owns ruston bucyrus ltd, under Paul Murray plant and equipment, and refurbs R.B's currently he has 9x 10rb's in stock, 2x for breaking and one fully restored for sale.
colours for machine are as follows:-
Machinery/engine-aircraft grey
front cab/roof - cream-using B/L enamel code 10C31
Sides - brilliant green(will have to get code)
undercarriage -black enamel
machinery guards - p/o red
If using the maroon on a build the colour is wild berries strong base code 17587
these are taken from original paint codings from ruston bucyrus ltd
the swing/conical rollers you need, at the last count, we had some available, again, shall have to check stock, or ring Paul Murray on 07831144463, alternatively, 0161,431,4139,

Martin Murray.

Hello Martin,
Fantastic news! First because of the useful information you have provided. Second, because Ruston Bucyrus Ltd /Paul Murray is only 10 minutes away from where our machine is being fettled! I will be in touch soon.
We have now dismantled the cab , didn't take long aided by gravity. We have taken both floor plates off , the left one will have to be replaced , the right floor with the control levers can be repaired. We now find that there is severe corrosion of the frame right hand side where the boom pivot and rh front conical roller are mounted. Some serious welding required.Don't know why only the rhs is affected- very odd.
The next job is take off the 2 drum shaft assemblies and sort out the filthy swing/propel gear case, then make it oil tight and replace the vertical shaft seal(s)
Regards
Bill


Hi Bill, looks like you have an enjoyable task of restoring your machine, my fathers address to buisness name refers to his home address, all the machinery is based in a quarry/workshop in Nantwich/cheshire. But im sure if your local he would be interested in seeing your machine.
regards
M.Murray


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 Post subject: Re: Rebuilding 10RB
PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 10:46 pm 
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http://s832.photobucket.com/albums/zz241/madoffroad/ruston%20bucyrus%20pics/

few more pics of RB'S lazing around in my dads yard

 Post subject: Re: Rebuilding 10RB
PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 10:45 am 
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Hi Folks,
Long time , no report.
Fixing the 10RB is going on slowly in the back ground. Other more pressing jobs to do.
The current state is: the left floor panel has been replaced with a new fabrication, the right floor has been extensively repaired and all the control lever bushes renewed. Some re-plating around the centre in front of the machinery case, above the swing lock. New bearings in the swing/propel gear and repair to the machinery oil pump, which we finally got working after over thirty years of it not doing!
Question at this point: what is a suitable (ie economical!) oil for the main machinery case? RB specified Shell Talpa 60 originally, but this is no longer available. Any recommendations?
Most of the cab parts have been made, none will be fitted until the two drum shafts have been re-assembled and fitted. I am looking into relining all the clutches and brakes. Various worn clutch parts,bushes and pins have been replaced.
The engine (Ruston 3VRH) has not needed much doing, the electric starter now works and the radiator has been replaced ( the header tank on the original had all but rusted away and the bottom tank was split). There is a slight leak on the water pump that needs looking at and the dynamo control box isn't working (yet). The engine sounds lovely and would be superb in a canal boat, but I doubt that will be its fate in my lifetime.
The undercarriage needs a lot of work, the tracks themselves are ok, we re-pinned them a few years ago, but the rollers, bushes and idler wheel bearings are in a bad state. The main concern here is that the track rollers have worn through the side of the track frame in several places and so needs patching , in a very awkward position. Oddly enough, the right side undercarriage is far worse than the left, I don't know why this should be.
Anyway, we're slowly getting there, I will update more often in the future.
Bill

 Post subject: Re: Rebuilding 10RB
PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 3:00 pm 
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Hello Bill
Most oil companies will cross reference oil specifications that the manufactures recomended when the machines were first built.I would love to have a RB 10 for a project :mrgreen:
Martyn

 Post subject: Re: Rebuilding 10RB
PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2012 11:59 pm 
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i was wondering about the wear on the right side undercarriage! the only thing i can think is whether the machine has been working on a boat yard or banking where she would only track forward/backward with the boom /weight over the right side and had no reason to slew, over time the extra weight of boom/bucket and/or dragline would put pressure on the rollers and track/frame causing excess wear!
just a passing thought!

 Post subject: Re: Rebuilding 10RB
PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 12:25 am 
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Update- work progressing slowly but hit a snag and need advice......
I stripped down the rear drum shaft and found the shaft damaged where the roller bearings run on the shaft, there had been no lubrication there for some tens of years. We have a spare which looks reasonable, so set about removing the driving gear from the original, except it won't move! The gear is keyed on, it isn't possible to remove the key first. We built a big puller , applied oxy/propane heat round the boss of the gear, will not shift. I am concerned that a bigger puller would break the gear wheel before it would move. We had the same problem with the track idler wheel-finished up cutting the shaft and drilling it out. I don't want to do this with the rear drum shaft, so,has anybody got a bright idea? Thanks in advance.
Bill

 Post subject: Re: Rebuilding 10RB
PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 7:26 am 
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Bill it should still be possible to remove the gear from the shaft can't you get it pressed out rather than pulled off, you could support the gear on its boss rather than risk the chance of shattering it, you would still need to apply heat.
The only other suggestion is dependant on the gear size and that is you could have the shafts damaged journals metal sprayed with the gear still fitted in the shaft; as I say this depends on the gear diameter?
Hope this helps.

Jeremy

 Post subject: Re: Rebuilding 10RB
PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 10:01 am 
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When I was an apprentice,we had a similar problem on a rail crane drum shaft. We stripped as much off it as possible.Cleaned up the shaft,put lots of penetrating fluid around keyway .Let it soak in.We then used a press to push out the shaft using blocks as tight as possible to gear boss and not on outer edge. Then applied heat,but not red hot. Is it fitted with a gib head key or just a parrallel key. If the key is at the end of the shaft.Drill it out, I have done this on mixer drive shafts that are stuck solid.
Could you post a photo ?
Martyn

 Post subject: Re: Rebuilding 10RB
PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 2:03 pm 
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Hi Bill,
It was pretty well par for the course on the RBs and most navvys to find gears , tumblers ,idlers, in fact everything extremely difficult to move.
If I remember rightly the key is the parallel type so it shouln't prevent the removal of the gear..
We had a 150 ton press in the shop and even that often failed. We used to put the offending gears and shafts in the press as Martyn described and apply heat.
Sometimes we found if we left them in the press under pressure during the cooling process, (over night), at some point they would start to move. After the innitial movement it was usualy fairly straightforward.
I know its a big, awkward and heavy lump to handle but I don't know of any easy answer.
Fred

 Post subject: Re: Rebuilding 10RB
PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 11:03 pm 
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Thanks for your input, I suspected a big press would come into somewhere. It's complicated by the fact that there is ball race (a pedestal bearing that carries the shaft) immediately "inside" the offending gear, this will only come off in the same direction as the gear has to come so fitting a tube of some sort to the back of the gear hub is not possible. The latest idea is to anchor the whole assembly down to something heavy (actually a railway bogie!) and strike the end of the shaft with a heavy tup suspended from a crane, this idea from someone who used to do maintenance in a steel rolling mill."It's what we used to do" I'll report back ,eventually................
Bill

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