FOWLER

[Fowler VF]

Ian

Found the book, a few pages missing but mostly all there. Will take a while to scan it all. I tried adding a page but it won't accept a pdf file (which is what my scanning system produces) so I tried to pm it to you, that doesn't work either. Does anyone know how to get scanned pdf's onto the board, as it might be useful for others to see soem of the manual? How big a file can your pm email accept?

My mistake, footclutch is on the right. Half way down it declutches and right down it should brake. You need to go right down to brake to stop the clutch flywheel spinning for changing gear, but might have to ease off a fraction for a second to let the clutch move a bit and ease the gears round to find mesh.

I can see that you are well hooked on it now; ain't it just wonderful when they start to come under load and pop away! Oil prime handle is behind main flywheel, just give it a couple of cranks if it has been stood a long while. Never try turning it when the machine is running. Probably worth while changing the oil, it can get stale and dirty, drain plug is underneath behind main flywheel.

Nick

[Fowler VF]

Ian

Found a file converter programme, lets see if it works.

[Fowler VF]

Ian

a few more pages to help you with the clutch.

Nick

[IANOZ]

THANKS NICK , THAT should be a great help. I posted a reply and come back to add a little more to find the cyber space monster must have got the last one. I don't know , i press submit ,it says post has been sucessfull but go back later and it's gone. WHAT are a gunuine set of books worth over there as I see some on ebay?? IS there a workshop manual or is the operators handbook the workshop manual as well?, ian.

[IANOZ]

HI NICK, another question. What engine oil would you recomend to use ,although that may be difficult given the tempriture difference between there and here. WE use 15w40 oil in all our machines. I don't want to put something in it that may not agree with the old girl. I see what you mean about marshall measles, but it not a bad ailment to have. ian.

[Fowler VF]

Ian

I have got just the one book, it is operators manual and workshop manual. Don't know if there is a more detailed manual for fitters but I have never seen one. As you can see from the sample pages it is plenty detailed enough, after all they are prettty simple and basic machines. I have no idea what the books are worth. I am more than happy to copy mine for you but you'll have to bear with me while I do it. I have just been using ordinary engine oil, I'll dig out the lubrication page for you. It is worth changing the oil out as it can get stale in the reservoir, my machine had an oiling failure whne I picked it up. My grandfather bought the machine secondhand in the late 50's and it passed to an uncle. At some stage the oil pump failed and the big ends picked up and it was parked up. To get to the oil pump you have to remove the flywheel, the key heads were snapped off and someone had tried drilling out the keys and then burning them with oxy. I spent weeks with pullers, heat etc easing that flywheel off. Only fault when we got to the pump seemed to be a bit of felt stuck in an oilway. At some stage it is probably worthwhile taking the air intake unit off, checking the sprung air valves and getting a look at the crank. You can use the oi prime handle then to see that oil is getting to the right places.

My machine has the old type of flat grease nipples, and there are quite a lot of them on the undercarriage, pivot points and rollers. Separate oil for each final drive and gearbox, I use EP 140. Steering brakes are wet, adjuster is at back of final drive, adjust with caution as the steering is on a differential unlike most other crawlers, the slightest extra drag on one side will cause the tractor not to pull straight. I had to re-line one of mine, a simple job except that you have to removes track, sprocket, final drive etc etc to get at it. check the rubber boots at the bottom of the steering brake levers, worthwhile cleaning the crud out from them and just putting a spot of oil on the brake cams underneath (you can't get to the brakes themeselves from here but the little cam that the lever works on should spring in and out freely otherwise the brakes will tend to hang on and wear out). Make sure the breather/drain at the bottom of exhsust is clear, this dribbles excess oil out of the chimney, if this clogs you will get the stack on fire!

Nick

[IANOZ]

thanks nick, AS someone who nothing about fowlers , our machine seems to me to be in very good order.ALLthe under carraige is almost new ,it starts well turns well and pushs well.IT is missing the side covers and the fowler badge from the front .I suppose badges are rare as hens teeth. WE dont think we will do a full restoration on it as we want to use it and get it dirty not just sit it in the shed to look at it. thanks again ,ian.

[IANOZ]

HI GUYS ,Missed out on the manuals on ebay over there,not to worry ,did want original ones but will have to make do with copyed ones i have ordered plus a new book out [here anyway?]marshall diesel tractors 1930-1957 hopefully ,with the books get to understand this magic piece of machinery. ian.

[IANOZ]

HI NICK AND OTHER VF OWNERS, We got our books today and have started servicing our machine. What do you guys use for filters? Ours the oil filter is a fleetgaurd LF618that maybe out of production. Fuel filter is still the felt squares,arethey avalible over there?or do you make them yourselfs. What about air filter?IS there a dry airfilter or do you find coconut fibre as originally used. Ours has some foam round the frame. The precleaner was dry so we have cleaned it and added oil .All infomation gratefully recieved.ian.

[bob]

[

This one could be a Marshall MP6 tractor or maybe not

DSCF0257.JPG

Dave[/quote]
Here is a photo of an MP6 taken the other day dont think its the same
Bob